Tunisia – A Guide To The Country
Tucked up in the north eastern tip of Africa, with Algeria to the west, Libya to the south and bordered by 1148 kilometre [713 miles] of vast blue Mediterranean sea, Tunisia is a land to be discovered. Steeped in History and Rich in Roman ruins.
Tunis, the capital city is easily accessed from most major European cities and offers a great opportunity to discover Tunis and the surrounding area for a long weekend break.
Tunis and Carthage
The Bardo Museum is a significant museum in Africa, due to it’s richness of collections; spend a morning strolling through the various exhibitions, making sure not to miss the permanent installation, of the Tunisian Museum, which has the world’s largest collection of mosaics, and displays artefacts from Carthage, the Unesco World Heritage site Dougga, Sbeitla and El Jem, along with Roman sarcophaguses and Christian baptisteries.
The old town of Tunis, the Medina, is the historic quarter of Tunis and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The souks are housed in the Medina among a maze of narrow passages and offer a heady mixture of sights, sounds and smells. From the brightly coloured fabrics and textiles, to hanging decorative lanterns and lamps, bags of spices, food, carpets, leather goods, pottery, clothing and jewellery, this is not your typical shopping experience. Stall owners expect you to haggle on the price, so don’t be afraid to bargain for your goods! The medina is fairly well sign-posted, but if this is your first visit to the Souks, I strongly recommend a guide, as it’s very easy to get lost.
No trip to Tunis is complete without visiting Sidi Bou Said, located just north of the city on a cliffs edge and easily accessible by car [find a secure carpark and leave the car to explore on foot]. When we visit, we tend to stay in Sidi Bou Said and use this as the base for exploring the Tunis area. Sidi Bou Saïd’s main attraction lies not in its history, but simply in its gorgeous appearance.
Sidi Bou Said typifies Tunisian architecture with its classic blue and white building and colourful doorways. It has an arty feel, and is a great village to have a good wander as every twist and turn offers another spectacular sight. Stop in at the Café des Delices for a coffee or something to eat whilst enjoying a breath-taking view over the harbour, especially at sunset.
D’Art Lella Salha & Des Metiers marketplace is the best market in the area, there are fantastic paintings, hand crafted pottery, leatherworks and various trinkets.
The Museum Dar el-Annabi housed in what used to be a private residence, depicts daily life for Tunisians. Explore the rooms, the furnishings, the garden and the terraces; make sure and walk up to the top for another extraordinary view.
A 20 minute walk down the hill from Sidi bou Said, lies the ruins of the ancient city of Carthage, founded in the 8th century BCE by the Phoenicians. The Phoenicians (Punic) were commerce orientated, and their wealth was legendary.
Built on a promontory on the Tunisian coast, Carthage was placed to influence and control ships passing between Sicily and the North African coast and rapidly becoming a thriving port and trading centre, it eventually developed into a major Mediterranean power and a rival to Rome.
From the middle of the 3rd century to the middle of the 2nd century BCE, Carthage was engaged in a series of wars with Rome. These wars, which are known as the Punic Wars, ended in the complete defeat of Carthage by Rome and the expansion of Roman control in the Mediterranean world. When Carthage finally fell in 146 BCE, the site was plundered and burned.
The ruins of Carthage are now a UNESCO World Heritage site. After a visit to the Carthage National Museum Other Prominent archealogical sites to visit, include Land of the Roman Houses of Amilcar; Brysa Hill; Baths of Antoninus; Grabanlage; Roman Theatre of Carthage; Le Quartier des Villas Romaines; Basilique de Damous Karita. Whilst exploring the area, you’ll come across an anomaly: Acropolium of Carthage, a Catholic Cathedral.
If you just want to relax along the sea, the Sidi Bou Said Beach plage by the harbour is a close (but steep) walk from the town, and a further 5 minute taxi ride from the plage or a 20 minute walk is Amilcar Beach, where you can hire sun loungers and there are some nice beachside cafes.
Hammamet Area
Along the west coast of Tunisia, The Bay of Hammamet, is a magnet for package holiday’s. An airport lies smack in the middle between Hammamet and Sousse . Row after row of hotels, cafes, arcades and tourist shops line the area of beach around these towns [they are about 95km apart], and they bookend a sliver of National Forest that lies on the very edge of the sea.
If you find yourself at one of the numerous resorts in Hammamet, and fancy a change of scenery, take yourself to Tunis for the day; just under an hour by car or taxi, an hour by bus or an hour and a half by train, it’s an easy day trip.
Half an hour along the main road (C28) [in the height of tourist season, take the peripheral road to avoid long delays on the dual lane road] is the pretty seaside town of Nabeul, known for it’s pottery production. Brightly coloured pots line the roads, and the best place to shop for pottery is in the souk area of the medina. The medina isn’t as big as other larger cities, and is easy to navigate. There isn’t much to do there besides a visit to the souk, and a trip to the beach, which is about 20 minutes out of town; I don’t advise walking to the beach, so if you don’t have a car, definitely take a taxi.
Discover Kairoun and El Jem
From Sousse, you can hire a car and within an hour you can visit either the ancient city of Kairoun or The El Jem Collisseum.
Driving east on the P12 to Kairoun, giant agave plants line the road, like creatures on a set from an old sci-fi movie. There is nothing sci-fi about Kairoun, though. Another UNESCO World Heritage site (Tunisia has 8 ), Kairouan is the fourth holiest city of Islam.
The Great Mosque of Kairouan is the oldest Muslim place of worship in Africa. Founded in 670, this ancient Mosque is an architectural time portal that illustrates the mixed influences of pre-Islamic, Roman, and Byzantine architecture. Once, a Guide told me that some of the pillars and stones used for the Mosque, were pilfered from ancient Roman ruins scattered across the country. I don’t know if there is any truth to the story, but I like the idea.
Visitors are allowed to walk around the complex. However, non Muslims are not allowed into the Great Hall, which is still a functioning place of worship, and as such, it is respectful to dress appropriately.
The medina of Kairoun is one of the best preserved in Tunisia, and is surrounded by walls, arches and minaret. I have spent an entire day there, wandering the maze of narrow lanes lined with brightly coloured houses, and fantastic doorways. The souk area of the medina is fascinating; the artisans are in their workshops, pounding copper, throwing pottery and tapping away at leather goods, but it is impossible to ignore Kairoun’s main speciality, carpets- they are everywhere! There are vendors on street corners and by petrol stations, however, it is best to stick to a merchant in the medina where they will sit you down with a cup of mint tea and start spreading a mind boggling amount of carpets for you to select. The sellers will refer to the carpet’s knots per square centimeter. For Tunisian carpets, the most common numbers are 20, 30, and 40 knots per cm². So what does this mean? A carpet with a higher number of knots per cm² (such as 30 or 40) uses more material, has more intricate patterns, a finer texture, and is not as high off the ground. A carpet with a lower number of knots per cm² (such as 10 or 20), has a higher pile and the patterns are not as detailed. Remember this when you start talking price. They anticipate haggling, and you can expect to bargain down at least 25-30% of the asking price; I’ve managed 40%, but it’s not easy- don’t forget they are professionals and can be wily!
Other sites worth visiting are the Three Doors Mosque- founded in 866 by an Andulsian scholar, it is famed for it’s interesting façade, the three doors of it’s name. Non muslims are not permitted to enter, but you are really here just to see the façade anyway. Zaouia of Sidi Abed el Ghariani, an ornate shrine is dedicated to a 14th century local holy man, and is one of Kairouan’s finest and best preserved examples of traditional Arabic ceramic tile decoration and artistry. The inner courtyard is a dream for photographers; it is completely covered in dazzling and colourful ceramic tiles displaying extraordinary patterns.
Lastly, if you have a sweet tooth, you’ll want to sample Kairouan’s traditional sweet pastry, maqroudh. You’ll see stacks of these sweet pastries made with dates and semolina at shops all over the city and throughout the medina.
El Jem Collisseum
Built in 238 AD is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best preserved Roman coliseums in the world. It is a marvel to see and experience. The first time I was there, back in the ancient days of the mid 1990’s, the place was empty and there was only one guard. My friend and I climbed up to the third floor and gazed down over the main arena, imagining the horrors that were entertainment back in the day. We wandered down below the arena to the eerie areas where they housed the prisoners and the animals; I got shivers down my spine!
Nowadays, there are vendors and independent “guides” outside of the coliseum shouting to get your attention to buy their wares or services. You don’t necessarily need to hire a guide if you have a strong signal on your mobile or a good guide book, however it is useful. Inside can get crowded during the high tourist season, so either get there early, or visit during the off-season, which is what we do.
Sfax and Kerkennah
An hour and 45 minutes drive from Sousse you arrive in Sfax, the second largest city in Tunisia. Sfax is an ancient port city with twisting alleyways and a winding maze of a medina and souk.
Sfax is an excellent city to explore, and is also a great place to base yourself or to start a 3-4 day adventure. There is an airport in Sfax, with flights from Tunis taking about 45 minutes. There are also direct flights from Paris and Istanbul.
One of the highlights of Sfax, is obviously, the medina and souk. Many people say Sfax is the most “authentic” medina in Tunisia; in my experience, it just doesn’t seem to be rammed with tourists all the time, so feels “more real”.
Whilst walking through the Medina, you can’t miss the Great Mosque, with it’s impressive minaret. Founded in AD 849, it has been rebuilt several times through history; this historic building is open to non-Muslim visitors who can enter the inner courtyard, but cannot enter the prayer room as this is still a functioning place of worship.
The mosaic collection at the Sfax Archaeology Museum is mind-blowing, and features mosaics from nearby excavation sites. The 5th or 6th-century “Daniel in the lions’ den” mosaic and the 3rd-century “Ennius surrounded by the muses” mosaic are the crown jewels.
About a half an hour out of the city centre, is the ancient ruined city of Thyna. It has some interesting features, however I don’t think it holds a candle to some of the other more impressive ruins in the country [ more on those further on]. If you are traveling to the area for just a short visit and won’t be visiting any of the larger sites, then definitely spend an hour or two wandering the most important archaeological site in the Sfax area.
For a local day at the beach, Plage de Chaffer can’t be beaten. This is where the locals go, especially on the weekends. There are vendors selling their wares, families and friendly football matches, and I’ve seen camel rides being offered. This is a great day out for an authentic local experience- you’ll be hard pressed to find many other tourists on the beach.
Most visitors to Sfax are passing through to somewhere else, namely the Kerkennah Islands. Put your car on the ferry, and an hour and a half later, you arrive into the port of Kerkennah where you’ll be greeted by the sight of hundreds of clay pots the fishermen use for catching octopus.
Octopus is HUGE on Kerkennah. It’s eaten at every meal and is available everywhere! I’ve never eaten so much octopus, and its never become boring on our visits.
Kerkennah Islands is charming and still “off the radar” to a certain extent. Tunisians vacation here and the wealthier ones have second homes on the islands. There aren’t a lot of big name resorts, but there are picturesque villages with local tourist accommodations and restaurants and cafes. Due to it’s location, it can be windy on the islands, but don’t let that detract you. Grab a snorkel, mask and flippers and start exploring.
Djerba and the South
About two hours south of Sfax, you can fly into Gabes Airport for a fascinating exploration of the south of Tunisia and the Isle of Djerba. Gabes has a small domestic airport with flights only in and out of Tunis. Djerba has an airport with flights from most central European cities.
Djerba is a fascinating island. For centuries, Arabs, Christian and Jews have peacefully co-existed on this island. Houmt Souk, the main town, with it’s winding cobblestone streets, whitewashed houses with the traditional blue shutters and doors, is a delight.
Wander past the vendors selling tourist tat, and make your way into the medina, where the artisans sell handmade pottery, leather goods, gorgeous textiles, and hand woven baskets and mats. Most of the vendors are Muslim, but make your way to the Jewish corner where you can buy silver and antiques. Around lunchtime, head over to the fish market where you can select your fish and directly across from the fish sellers is a restaurant that will grill your fish for you! After lunch, Make your way to El Ghriba, a few kilometres from the medina, and also the most important synagogue on Djerba and the oldest in Tunisia. It boasts amazing coloured tiles and the floors are lined with mats woven by Muslim craftsmen.
The main stretch of beach is where the major hotels are, but the entire coastal area of Djerba is free to explore. There are plenty of water sports to choose from or find your way to a quieter stretch of beach called Sidi Maharès, where you’ll see tourists and locals alike, and there are some fantastic cafes serving local seafood. You can also hire sun loungers and parasols. Situated on the eastern side of the island, Guellela is a small town that has become famous for its exquisite pottery. The village is home to over 400 pottery workshops, and holds a market every Friday.
If you want to include other areas to explore, besides Djerba, Gabes is a great place to start; it’s the gateway to the Sahara.
First stop is Matmata, an ancient Berber troglodyte village; literally the real set of several well-known films, including two “Star Wars” episodes, due to its distinctive architecture and landscape. Fans of “Star Wars” can even spend the night in Luke Skywalker’s residence in Matmata. The movie’s depiction of a subterranean dwelling has been transformed into the popular Hotel Sidi Driss.
Another 2 hour drive is Douz; the true entrance to the Sahara. When I was researching the official website for the Douz Sahara Festival [which doesn’t seem to be updated regularly. but this year the festival is late December, 2024], I came across this YouTube– my words can’t describe the experience as well as this video.
The Douz Sahara Festival, held every year around December, a four day celebration of the traditional desert culture, focusing on Bedouin life. The event started as an annual Bedouin Bridal fair where nomadic families would meet, trade and check out the eligible talent for their sons and daughters’ future weddings. What was already a huge event on the Bedouin calendar, has become a gigantic celebration of desert culture.
If you’re trip involves flying in and out of either Djerba or Gabes, the next stop on the itinerary, is the ancient Berber village of Chenini, a fortified village where the dwellings are dug into the side of the mountains; unlike Matmata, where the residences were dug down to create round “holes” that were used for courtyards and the rooms were dug around the “courtyards” and into the earth.
There are a few such villages in this part of Tunisia, and Chenini is by far, my favourite. It is still inhabited [approximately 500 residents] and the lovely white mosque at the top is still used as a place of worship. The people are extraordinarily friendly welcoming us into their homes for tea, and down at the “main shop,” where there were no women, I was offered a cold Coke from the only fridge in town at the time, by one of the old village elders.
Before you finish off your trip to this corner of Tunisia, it would be very rude to not stop at Zarzis, a stretch of wild beach area that doesn’t get the tourist traffic of Djerba, however the beaches are spectacular. Zarzis, like most ancient port towns, still has a Punic port area, and there are still signs of ancient civilizations. Zarzis is known for sponge diving- they take this very seriously, as there is even a sponge diving festival complete with lectures and demonstrations.
If you feel like getting off your sun lounger for one more blast of culture before you fly home, there is the Zarzis Museum which displays objects from excavations carried out in the various archaeological sites of the area and the various civilisations throughout the centuries. Also, the great mosque of Zarzis, which is worth a visit for the architecture and the mosaics alone.
What about the rest of the country, you ask. If you fancy more adventure, I’m about to recommend the Ultimate Tunisian Road Trip… watch this space!
