Cheltenham Spa, Cotswolds, UK
Mineral Springs were discovered in Cheltenham in 1716 and the locals believed the water contained therapeutic value and began drinking it. By the late 1780’s Cheltenham was known as a ‘ Spa Town’ and was attracting hundreds of visitors a year, most notably King George III; who was considered mad due to his ill health and had travelled with his entourage to Cheltenham to “take the waters” on the advice of his doctors. The royal visit boosted the popularity of the town, and people began referring to it as Royal Well and it’s reputation as a Spa Town began attracting aristocracy, along with the wealthy and fashionable crowd including Jane Austen, Oscar Wilde, and Charles Dickens.
More than 200 years later, and Cheltenham Spa is a thriving, stylish city in the heart of the Cotswolds and the perfect place for a short weekend break. Cheltenham is home to GCHQ along with numerous prestigious colleges and the University of Gloucestershire, which brings a multi-cultural influence and vibe to the city.
A two hour train journey from London Paddington [2.4 hours by car], you arrive in Cheltenham Spa just in time for an evening aperitif followed by dinner in any number of fabulous restaurants catering to a wide variety of tastes and budgets; from tasty Vegan; Turkish kebabs cooked over hot coals; Sri Lankan ; Malaysian, to fine Michelin starred eateries.
A morning stroll around town, and you will see gorgeous architecture attributed to the Regency Period which has earned Cheltenham Spa the title of Britain’s most complete Regency Town. In addition to the well known branded shops available on many High Streets, Cheltenham Spa offers a wide variety of boutiques, art galleries, antique shops and speciality bakeries. Finish your stroll at Pittville Park with its stunning Pittville Pump Room or Montpelier Gardens for a coffee and watch the world go by.
If you have a car, visiting Snowshill Manor and Garden, now owned by the National Trust, is a 35 minute drive just past the quintessential postcard perfect Cotswold village of Broadway.
Snowshill Manor was owned by a chap called Charles Wade [1883 – 1956] an architect and poet of Afro Caribbean descent and a rather eccentric collector of object d’art, textiles, bric-a-brac, bicycles, clocks; anything really, that took his fancy. The Manor houses his curated collections and is like walking into Alladin’s Cave!
After a leisurely walk through the garden, make your way back to the village of Broadway. Pop into John Barleycorn’s for a sensory overload of gorgeous, often unusual food products, stunning displays of fresh fruit and vegetables, prepared salads, gifts and obscure beers, wine and spirits.
There are a couple of speciality kitchen and table ware shops offering everything you need or didn’t know you needed, but simply can’t resist. Other speciality boutiques offer luxury handbags, handmade ceramics and a shoe store with unusual and unique shoes you won’t find on the High Street. Relax with a drink outdoors at either The Crown and Trumpet or the Broadway Hotel.
There are plenty of weekend brunches being served across Cheltenham; quite possibly a very good offer at your hotel. If you are venturing out for breakfast or brunch, there are literally loads to choose- from bottomless boozy affairs to informal and basic cafes, and clever ala carte menus.
After breakfast or brunch, a visit to Sudeley Castle should definitely be on the top of your to-do list. Less than 10 miles from Cheltenham Spa, Sudeley Castle and Gardens remains the only private castle in England to have a queen buried within the grounds – Queen Katherine Parr, the last and surviving wife of King Henry VIII – who lived and died in the castle.
Sudeley Castle boasts 10 magnificent gardens within the grounds of the Castle, and commands stunning views across the Cotswold countryside.
Visitors can explore the 15th century west wing of the castle with its fascinating exhibitions and décor. The South Hall contains fine panels of Dutch painted glass, one section dated 1580 and the other 1620, along with an iconic Elizabethan painting – The Allegory of the Tudor Succession. The renowned artwork was created by Flemish artist, Lucas de Heere, and depicts Henry VIII, his three children, and Queen Mary’s husband, Phillip of Spain.
The library houses more than 1,000 books, some over 400 years old. On the wall is one of Sudeley’s greatest treasures, a rare, 16th century Sheldon tapestry, depicting the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise, and a portrait of Rubens by Anthony Van Dyck is also on display.
I don’t recommend the Castle’s Restaurant; when I was last there, it was just a tea room serving some tired cakes and pre-made chilled sandwiches. Instead, stop in the picturesque adjacent village of Winchcombe for a drink (in the garden on a nice day) and a bite to eat at The Lion Inn.
Cheltenham seems always to be buzzing with something to do. Cheltenham is home to the Everyman Theatre founded in 1891. It is one of the few remaining regional theatres to stage productions either on their way to, or after appearing in London’s West End. Additionally, it hosts 5 major Festivals; Jazz, Literature, Science, Music, Food and Wine and showcasing some of the most recent innovations, newest technology, international stars and trendy food and gadgets.
Each year, hundreds of thousands of visitors flock to Cheltenham Spa for one of the biggest draws to the area; Cheltenham Racecourse, home of the Cheltenham Festival. Four days of racing excitement culminating in the Gold Cup.
Further afield, a 10 minute train ride to Gloucester is worth a visit. Gloucester doesn’t boast the charm and attraction of Cheltenham, but it can brag about its Roman History, which you will discover throughout the city. Gloucester Cathedral is home to some of the most amazing stained glass installations I have ever seen. Not being a religious person, I usually don’t spend much time in places of worship. However, Gloucester Cathedral captured our imagination so completely, that if my stomach hadn’t started rumbling, I would not have realised that three hours had whizzed past!
Pay attention to the detail and keep an eye out for the artisans “signatures” on some of the hand carved columns. Have you noticed the small holes in the ceilings of the Cloisters? [we asked several docents and finally got an answer!]
During another recent weekend in Cheltenham, we visited Slimbridge Wetland Centre, about a 25 minute journey by car. A massive wetland centre, Slimbridge offers something for every age; whether you fancy a stroll and enjoy the wildlife, or take a canoe safari, an overland wild safari, have a seat in the many hides watching the birds and the ducks, book yourself into a tour or a talk, make sure to allow yourself plenty of time to enjoy- one can easily spend the entire day!! Among the sites, sounds and adventures, we were particularly fascinated with the many varieties of Flamingos.
However you choose to spend your time visiting Cheltenham Spa, one thing is certain. You will be back…
Restaurants we like:
The Restaurant at Cowley Manor
Where to Stay:
