Meknes, Morocco
Meknes is the sixth largest city in Morocco, and is one of Morocco’s four Imperial Cities. It is located 60km South West of Fes [closest airport] and is accessible from Fes by road or train. Meknes was founded in the eleventh century by the Almoravids and takes it’s name from the local Berber tribe (Miknasa) which inhabited the area prior to the settlement becoming a military stronghold.
There are many historical buildings and monuments in Meknes, and although there was major restoration work taking place during our recent visit, there is plenty to see and do in this ancient walled city.
A lot of the accommodation to be found in Meknes is in Riad-type buildings. On this occasion, we checked into the charming Riad Yacout in the centre of town between the old medina and the “new” city. The Riad Yacout boasts a birds-eye view of the Grand Mosque from the lovely roof terrace that has a plunge pool and sun loungers and begs to host an aperitif at sundown; however, no alcohol is served, but they do offer a pot of tea and you can bring your own lunch or dinner for an alfresco moment overlooking the city. In the morning, breakfast is served in a small dining room downstairs.
The charm of the medina has earned the city a Unesco World Heritage status, and no visit to Meknes is complete without a meander through the narrow streets. Its winding alleyways are home to hundreds of homes, shops, and market stalls within the oldest part of the city; here you can purchase any manner of rugs, lamps, spices, and various house-wares. Do be aware that the prices advertised for tourists are deliberately high, it is expected that you will haggle the prices down to a reasonable rate – a rough guide is to offer 40% of the asking price and expect to pay 60%.
The Grand Mosque of Medina rises spectacularly and overlooks the centre of the medina. If you get lost or disoriented whilst wandering about, this is a good reference point to regain your position.
A visit to The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail is another highlight of Meknes. “Moulay Ismail was a member of the Alaouite Dynasty, who ruled the country from 1672 to 1727. In a break with tradition, he made the city of Meknes his capital, and embarked on several massive building projects.
In his time as sultan, Moulay Ismail gained a reputation for ruthlessness, earned due to his purges of anybody unwilling to support him and for megalomania, particularly when it came to creating monuments and palaces at the expense of destroying those built by others. One famous casualty of Moulay Ismail is the El Badi Palace in Marrakesh, demolished for its materials.
Nevertheless, Moulay Ismail was also known as a very effective leader. Created by masses of slaves and criminal prisoners, the sultan oversaw the initial construction of his tomb. The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail is a good example of the opulence of the sultan’s building style. Built around grand courtyards and fountains are rooms with intricate tiling and stucco walls adorned with fine objects such as clocks gifted to the sultan by his friend, the French king, Louis XIV. Moulay Ismail was laid to rest in the mausoleum together with one of his (five hundred) wives and two of his (eight hundred) children.”
As a sacred site, visitors are expected to dress modestly, with women recommended to cover their heads as a sign of respect. The complex is open daily, but due to the on-going restoration work, parts of the complex were not available when we were there. Non-Muslims are not permitted to enter the actual tomb, however, through its magnificent architecture, its enduring legacy, and its role as a site of pilgrimage and devotion, the mausoleum offers a unique and unforgettable glimpse into the life and times of one of the nation‘s most significant rulers.
A ten minute walk from the mausoleum is the Palais Marouane Riad located on a quiet residential street. We were told a french couple recently bought the place and Nicholas [half of the couple] is a Chef. Intrigued, we booked dinner and spent a few evenings on the upper terrace of the riad enjoying great food and conversation late into the night. The ornate interior décor made up of traditional mosaics throughout the riad is very welcoming and Nicolas and Sofiane are wonderful hosts.
There are many museums in Meknes but the one that stood out for us is Dai Jamal Musée, housed in a former residence built in 1882, it is dedicated to the history of music in the region and is situated in a historic building just off the old medina. The internal gardens and mosaics all add to the grandeur of the building and take nothing away from the main attraction. With 100’s of ancient and historical musical instruments on show you will see the evolution of modern instruments that we know today from what they looked and sounded like a thousand years ago.
Agriculture is the major industry around Meknes where you will find endless fields of olives and fruit trees among vast crops of onions, garlic, strawberries, mint and other herbs. Meknes is also home to Morocco’s largest vineyards, and a thriving wine industry. You can visit wineries such as Chateau Roslane where you can learn about the history of winemaking in the region and sample some of the gorgeous wines which include all the usual varieties of Red, White, and Rosé, as well as Gris blanc. The Chateau offers luxury accomodation and superb food and drink 25 minutes by taxi outside of Meknes.
Finding a licensed premises in the old city is not the easiest; although there are plenty of licensed venues in the large International hotels, the character of the old town will be missing. So if you fancy an appertif, one restaurant that is well worth a visit is Collier de la Colombe which is just a few streets away from the old medina and offers European and Moroccan cuisine. It has a great wine list of local wines and the views over the city from the rooftop terrace are worth the visit alone.
As a forerunner to European society the historical sites and sounds on display in and around Meknes show us a clear path of how we evolved our love of food and music, and how little these two daily delights have changed through the millennia.
