Grapes, Vines, And Wines

A Brief History

Origins of Grapes

Two biologists from the University of California have made an interesting discovery regarding the origins of the relationship between grapes and humans.

Brandon Gaut and Dario Cantu conducted studies of grape genomes from ancient wild and current domesticated grapes. They discovered evidence that humans have potentially been eating grapes for 22,000 years—almost 15,000 years before grapes were domesticated and cultivated for wine production.

With the retreat of ice sheets that covered much of Europe and North America, humans discovered many natural treats waiting for them. One of these was the humble grape, which would go on to become one of the most sought-after and valuable crops on the entire planet.

Wine Appears

Recent archaeological excavations in the Eastern European nation of Georgia have uncovered evidence that humans were making and storing wine approximately 8,000 years ago. Residue on ceramic pots dating back to 6000 BC, uncovered in excavations south of Georgia’s capital Tbilisi, was found to contain tartaric acid—a fingerprint of wine DNA. The find predates the previous oldest evidence of wine production by up to 1,000 years. The former record holder was from the Zagros Mountain region of Iran.

The excavation sites were the ruined remnants of two Neolithic Age villages, dating from approximately 15,000 BC to 2,000 BC. The Neolithic Age was a highly significant period of human development. During this time, humans began farming crops, domesticating livestock, making pottery, weaving, and producing polished stone tools.

There are thought to be as many as 10,000 varieties of domesticated grapes on Earth. Of these, 500 are found in Georgia, which suggests that vines and grapes have been crossbreeding in the region for a very long time. It is believed that the domesticated grape varieties we have now are a direct result of vine domestication in the Caucasian region thousands of years ago.

The Egyptians

As far back as 4000 BC, the ancient Egyptians were perfecting viticulture, though at that time, the grapes were imported from what is now Jordan/Palestine. Wine was certainly reserved for the noble classes in ancient Egypt, with the general population consuming beer instead. However, wine was available in the palaces and was used in daily rituals, festivities, and, of course, buried with the pharaohs.

The Egyptians stored their wine in large clay pots called amphorae. When a king or pharaoh was buried, their name would be inscribed on the amphorae, which were then loaded into the tomb for the deceased to enjoy in the afterlife.

Murals depicting the harvest of grapes and the winemaking process have also been found inside tombs, suggesting that the ancient Egyptians were very fond of wine. The Egyptians would also label the amphorae with descriptions of the age of the contents, where and by whom it was made, and an appraisal of the wine’s quality—almost like an ancient AOC system.

Phoenician Winemaking

The Phoenicians were a civilization from what is now Lebanon. Between 1500 BC and 300 BC, they created trade links along the north and south coasts of the Mediterranean.

Evidence suggests that the Phoenicians not only traded wine in the colonies they established but also brought vast knowledge of viticulture and winemaking. The Phoenicians’ most successful colony was Carthage, in modern Tunisia. From here, they spread winemaking to Sicily, Sardinia, and as far as the Iberian Peninsula.

Through quotes by ancient Roman and Greek writers, we know that the Phoenicians were skilled in both shipbuilding and winemaking, and they would educate the inhabitants of their colonies in vineyard planning. They brought cuttings of grapevines deemed especially suited to winemaking as they explored the Mediterranean coastline. It is thought that the French grape variety Mourvèdre was first introduced to Catalonia by the Phoenicians around 500 BC.

There is vast evidence that the Phoenicians introduced winemaking culture throughout Spain and Portugal. A recent archaeological find in Valdepeñas, southern Spain, unearthed Phoenician pottery, tools, and winemaking equipment dated back to the 7th century BC.

Greeks and Wine

Inspired by the Phoenicians, the ancient Greeks assumed the role of the main trading nation in the Mediterranean, where they took their love of wine to new levels. They even had a god of wine: Dionysus.

As the Greeks started setting up their own colonies around the Mediterranean, they, like the Phoenicians, brought cuttings of their favorite vines and set up vineyards in southern France and around the Black Sea. They were, however, reminded here and there that they were not the first to do this. The Greeks called the southern Italian peninsula Oenotria, which translates to “land of vines.”

There is significant evidence that the French had strong ties with Athens and were major customers of the Greek wine trade. A shipwreck discovered off the south coast of France contained 300,000 liters of Greek wine that was destined to be transported up the Rhône. It is believed that the Greeks exported several million liters of wine to France each year.

An archaeological discovery in Burgundy in 1929 unearthed several Greek artifacts, most notably a large, two-handled, 1,000-liter capacity vase used to mix wine with water, further illustrating the early influence the Greeks had on central Europe.

Roman Contributions to Winemaking

The Romans believed that wine consumption was a necessary daily activity for all citizens, regardless of social standing. This increased the demand for wine dramatically, and as a result, Roman winemakers were sent to the far corners of the empire to set up vineyards. New technologies in winemaking meant these colonists were very successful, contributing to the empire’s expansion.

The 2nd century BC saw technological advances in winemaking, ushering in a golden age of Roman winemaking and the introduction of grand cru vineyards. History records that the vintage of 121 BC was unusually exceptional, with wines of such extraordinary quality that the vintage was named the Opimian vintage, after consul Lucius Opimius, who was a ruthless politician and a great lover of wine.

Without a doubt, the most important wine region in the Roman Empire was the city of Pompeii, where vines covered the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, benefiting from the rich volcanic soils. The Pompeians were famous for their appetite for drinking wine and their worship of the Roman god of wine, Bacchus, as evidenced by the many frescoes depicting Bacchus found in the region.

The eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD had a devastating effect on Roman wine culture. Vineyards and storage facilities were destroyed, and the price of wine skyrocketed. As a result, farmers hastily dug up their grain fields to plant vines, hoping to capitalize on the new profit opportunities. The result was catastrophic: a glut of wine caused prices to plummet, and the lack of grain fields led to food shortages. In response, Emperor Domitian banned the planting of new vineyards in Rome and ordered the uprooting of half the vineyards in Spain, France, and Germany.

There is evidence to suggest that Domitian’s edict was largely ignored in the new provinces—something we can be thankful for today. Had the edict been followed, the burgeoning wine industries in Spain and France might not have survived. As a result of ignoring Rome’s orders, new wine regions opened up throughout both countries, establishing histories and traditions that continue to thrive today.